Painting Models, With Derk!
Welcome to my little workshop!
As a regular customer, Kevin asked me to make a ´´how to´´ on painting models. This is how the idea for this "how to" came about. In the following page I would like to show you how to turn the model of the MB 250 GD printed by Kevin on a scale of 1:160 into a "wolf" of the Bundeswehr.
It starts with getting mail ... ;-)
... and then it's time to unpack!
Cut the tape on the opening tab from below.
Now flip the flap up to open the lid.
Each model has been carefully wrapped in bubble wrap. Models that are especially fragile, such as the figures here, are protected in an additional clear box.
Now I carefully take out one of the film rolls and carefully remove the tape and place the whole thing on a firm surface to unwrap.
From now on I recommend handling the models with gloves. The models are already cleaned and degreased. Imprints from greasy fingers would make painting more difficult. ;-)
Let's take a look at the tools i use, which are a couple of fine brushes. The biggest 2/0, the finest 10/0. Whether red marten or synthetic, you can pick what you prefer.
Now we move on to the colors. I use water-soluble model paints from a well-known German manufacturer. But everyone likes to take the brand of their choice.
I use two (empty) plastic (yoghurt) cups to process the color. I fill one (left) with normal tap water. I turn the other one upside-down and use it as a stand to mix the paint on. The 2/0 or 4/0 brush is used for the first application of paint, bronze green (RAL 6031).
After shaking the paint container vigorously, do not stir with your brush! A toothpick is a very nice tool to stir the paint with. As soon as you add a drop of water to the paint, it starts to solidify.
In the last picture you can see that the color is way too thick for the small, fragile models. The trick is to water down the paint directly when painting. The resin of the 3D printing models is very open-pored and bassicly absorbs the color. It is therefore not necessary to use a primer.
The technique is bassicly the same as back in the day, at school ... ;-) Now dip the brush in the water..
...from there directly into the paint...
...and water it down.
Now the model gets completely painted (except for the tires!) in bronze green. Work "wet on wet". With every brush stroke you can see how the color is absorbed into the model. If the color is too thin, no problem. Just let the model dry a little (... just a few minutes), put a little more paint (with less water) on the brush and brush the area again.
In the next picture you can probably see the best how thin the paint can be, on the rims of the vehicle.
Small mistakes when painting the rims are no problem. The tire color (I use "Panzergrau") covers very well!
Before I paint the tires, I make it easier to handle the model. I just glue a trimmed toothpick into one of the holes in the floor. I use wood glue because it is water soluble and because it is easy to remove.
So now the first color is on it. The model now looks like this:
As I said, the tires are painted "Panzergrau". The same procedure applies to the next color as to the bronze green we did before.
Next we come to the first color of the camouflage paint,'' tar-black'' (RAL 9021). By the way, camouflage colors are not applied as you like. There are binding painting rules for every vehicle in the Bundeswehr in every branch of arms. A good source on the Internet for camouflage schemes is the website www.panzerbaer.de. You can find the camouflage scheme for the "Wolf" here: http://www.panzerbaer.de/colours/a_relaunch/bw_lkw_00-9t_gl_wolf.htm .
You can of course place the laptop near your work station, but I prefer to print out the page. The procedure with ''tar-black'' is the same as with the colors before.
The purpose of camouflage painting is to make it more difficult to perceive the contours of the vehicle from a distance in the field. There are minor deviations in the series because either the paint was spray-painted with the stencil or because it was brushed "free hand". Therefore, the camouflage scheme is a requirement, but not to the millimeter. Take a look at a few "Wolf's" on the net and compare the pictures. Every vehicle is different... ;-)
The next step is to add a few spots of "leather brown" (RAL 8027) ...
The painting of the model is almost complete. We now come to the lights, turn signals and tail lights. We no longer need a brush as a tool, but instead we use toothpicks. We will be using the following colors: silver (headlights and reversing light), red (rear lights and rear fog light) and Orange (indicators). I use "aluminum" 99 (silver 90, works the same ...), red 31 and orange 30, again from AquaColor ...
The paint must be thinned again, but not as much as for painting the body. only pick up the paint with the tip of the toothpick and then "tap" on the corresponding point on the model.
It is better to take up less paint and carry out the step several times, then to use too much paint and risk making a "huge" stain...
The rear fog lamp and the reversing light are indicated with a short line in the respective color.
Here at the headlights you can see two things. On the one hand proceed piece by piece when painting and on the other hand that a small mistake may happen (... right there on the radiator grille ...) In the next picture after that this is overpainted again with a dab of the appropriate color.
For the turn signals here at the "Wolf" I use the 10/0 brush again.
Finished! No, not entirely. Of course, window panes and license plates are still missing. But that should be a separate topic.
Thank you for reading the how-to, and i hope to see you again in the next one!